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1960 : The Revival
Lets think back to 40 years ago. At the beginning of the 1960s, the vineyard of southern Ardèche had only one appellation, that of Côtes-du-Rhône from the township of Bourg-Saint-Andéol, classed so by the decree of 19th November 1937, which determined the area of the appellation.
However, by 1954 (50hl) and 1961 (290hl) some declarations of simple appellations concerned Côtes-du-Vivarais, in particular the cellar of Orgnac l’Aven, whose classification was to come in 1962. But essentially, the wine produced in southern Ardèche was 99.5% made up by ordinary wines. These wines were sold primarily to brokers, the wines of southern Ardèche developed a reputation for being blended. Couderc 13, for example, proved to be an improving grape variety for the wines of South and of Algeria. The wines therefore found an easy outlet for trade, even if the prices did remain affordable. The work on the vine, though it remained challenging, was greatly helped by the large quantity of hybrid vines which were resistant to disease (thus few treatments necessary) and to frost.
Despite this easy flow of products (all of the wine was sold in bulk and kept for local consumption), the wine makers were envisioning the future.. A handful of men will realise the risks in using a vineyard for a large production of average quality wine. At first as outsiders, they initially called for the making of better quality wines, meaning a complete change in their work methods and especially in their attitudes. The gamble on quality was underway, without them one could state that Ardèche viticulture would have suffered a terrible and lasting crisis. Two different ways emerged (they will never be in competition, but rather they compliment each other), both supported by the agricultural authorities - Chambre d’Agriculture, departmental services (now the DDAF,...): - the first was that led by the winemakers of Saint-Remèze, Saint-Montan and Orgnac l’Aven which was to engage in a policy of quality that would mean in 1962 the birth of the appellation VDQS Côtes-du-Vivarais, - - the second was that led by three wine makers: Louis Delichères of Grospierres, Roger Champetier of Ruoms and Raymond Manent of Vinezac. The aim was the same: strive towards quality.
This common objective led to other perspectives than those derived from the mastering of vine growing (from the grapes to marketing) by the wine makers themselves. They took an ambitious gamble. Let’s not forget that at that time wine sales were the job of the brokers and they still had it all to do. But these vine growers were pioneers in the course of history : - the vine growers of Côtes-du-Vivarais were to find their first commercial markets within a “emerging local industry: tourism”. - the others were to quickly find themselves benefitting from a policy introduced in 1973 as part of the Plan for Renovation of the southern vineyard (called the “Plan Chirac”) followed later on by the EEC funds. These measures found all their uses in the Vin de Pays appelation, created roughly in 1964, then ever more precisely defined by successive decrees (1968, 1970, 1979). In both cases, in aiming for quality without resorting to hybrids, they had to take a crucial step : the restructuring of the vineyard will be exemplary.
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